This section will contain some tips from club members, and ideas for juggling tricks you could try yourself.
Enough of this - let's get back to basics.
If you want to learn to juggle for the first time, take a look at the Beginners Corner. But if you'd like to learn a bit more about how it all works, then read on.
| The Cascade | |
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This is the basic juggling pattern, and it can be performed with any odd number of objects. Most people learn this first (as a three ball pattern) , and it's the basis for lots of more interesting patterns. A cascade is totally symmetrical - the hands alternate, throwing the ball to the other hand, all at the same height. Most people who have learnt to juggle casually can do a three ball cascade. |
| The Fountain | |
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The Fountain is to even numbers what the cascade is to odd - i.e. it is the basic pattern for four ball juggling, or six, eight, etc. for the more adventurous! It is basically two circles - the right hand throws only to the right, the left only to the left, the balls circle around from inside to out on each side. What? The balls don't cross over? That's right. A four ball fountain is just juggling two in each hand - but that's quite a bit harder than it sounds! |
| The Shower | |
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This pattern can be done with any number of objects (no I don't mean it's really easy to do big numbers - I mean you can do it with odd or even numbers). One hand throws up and across, while the other passes a ball quickly underneath it. Kids often learn to juggle 2 balls this way. It's the easiest pattern for two, but it soon gets much harder. If you juggle a three ball shower, one hand is working as hard as if it were juggling five balls (yes - it's true!) A four ball shower makes one hand work as hard as it would in a seven ball pattern, five equates to nine, and so on. We'll come on to an explanation of why this is a bit later. |
| The Half Shower | |
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Again, this can be done with any number of objects. It's similar to the shower, in that one hand always throws higher than the other, but instead of passing straight across, the lower hand does a small throw, so the pattern looks like two different sized arcs in the air. |
| Reversing the Patterns | |
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It's possible to juggle backwards. A reverse cascade looks like a cascade, but the balls are thrown on the outside and caught on the inside. The same is true of the fountain - each hand throws up the outside and the balls fall back on the inside - i.e. the circles go the other way around. Can you do a shower or half shower backwards? Sort of, but effectively the pattern just mirrors, so a reverse shower is just a left-handed shower. |
| Getting more complicated | |
| These are the basic patterns which people tend to learn first. Some people stick with these, striving to put more and more objects into them - they're known as numbers jugglers. Others may never bother with more than three balls, but learn complex patterns involving a mixture of the throws described above, combined with other moves, such as crossed arms, throws under the leg, behind the back, etc. There are many fascinating patterns to learn, like Mill's Mess (the 'twirly' pattern most people master first), Burke's Barrage, Rubenstein's Revene (really twirly!), The Box (a 'sqaure' pattern), The Machine and many more. Many jugglers run patterns together, or make up new ones of their own devising, to create striking effects. | |
Accepted wisdom is that you should always own at least one more ball/club than you can juggle. The thinking is that this will spur you on to learn more. Perhaps more relevant: how will you ever learn four balls if you have only three?
Below I've outlined some types of juggling prop, along with key points about them and some photos...
Balls |
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| Balls come in various sizes and weights and it's really down to personal preference which sort you buy. There's also a vast range of colours to choose from. So-called stage balls have a plastic shell and are usually large and brightly coloured for performance. Most hobbyists use a cloth, millet-filled ball known as a thud. The balls pictured to the left are Spotlight Raves, quite small and light but very, very bright. I like these for bigger numbers, but find them a bit light for most juggling. | |
| These are Beard 180s, a heavy (180g) thud which I've used as my main juggling ball for about 18 months. That's why they look a bit battered :-) I like these because the weight makes them easy to control, but they can wear you out quite quickly. Other manufacturers do balls of similar weight. | |
Bouncing Balls |
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| Bounce jugglers do it upside-down. Basically most patterns which can be juggled in the air can also be juggled off the floor. Provided you have balls that bounce, of course. If you try this with thuds they just go, well... thud. So you need some balls like those pictured here. These are Oddball bouncing balls, one of the more common varieties. The Rolls Royce of bouncing balls are silicones, perfect spheres of pure white silicone, beautiful to look at and handle. However, they would set you back about £35 each, so stick with the rubber variety unless you're really keen. | |
Clubs |
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| By far my favourite prop, there is a great variety of clubs on the market. They vary in weight, spin speed, shape and decoration. Pictured here are Henry's Pirouettes, regarded by many (especially passers) as one of the best clubs available. They are reasonably light and have a fairly fast spin. I favour them for passing, but am starting to turn back to a slower-spinning club for solo juggling, currently Henry's Albatross. You can see some of those in the third picture. | |
| I said clubs come in various shapes, and I wasn't kidding. Pictured here are Beard Radical Fish, one of the more unusual-looking clubs. They were very popular a few years ago, especially with numbers jugglers because of their small size, low weight (180g or 210g) and relatively slow spin. This set are the 210g variety - they're over four years old and have seen quite some action, as you can see from the worn handles. | |
| Clubs come in two basic types: one-piece and two-piece. One-piece are a single piece of hollow, moulded plastic. They're generally regarded as inferior, except by some club-swingers, who find their moulded plastic knobs better than the separate rubber ones found on most two-piece clubs. Some jugglers still rate certain one-piece clubs highly, notably the Dube Klassic. Two piece clubs have a separate body and handle, with a wooden dowel running all the way through the middle. Rubber knobs and ends are usually held on by a screw into the end of the dowel. All the clubs pictured here are two-piece, including the Henry's Albatross to the left, a fairly heavy club at 230g. | |
Rings |
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| Picture to follow | I'm no expert on rings, as I never juggle them (hence no photo yet!) There are two basic varieties, one is a very thin plastic disc, the other slightly thicker and hollow. The latter are more forgiving on the hands, but it's harder to hold a lot of them. Also worthy of note are colour-change rings, which have a different colour on each side, so the juggler can flip them around during a routine to give the illusion that they've changed colour. Rings can be quite good for juggling big numbers and the fluourescent sort are also effective in UV shows. |
Diabolo |
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| Diabolo was a kids' toy popular about 50(?) years ago (before my time, I'm afraid). Basically you keep the diabolo spinning on the string suspended between two sticks. There are lots of tricks you can do, including throwing it, making it jump over your legs and arms, keeping more than one going, etc. Although I own a diabolo, I have rarely been seen using it, so I won't offer any advice. Diabolos are all basically the same shape, but come in a variety of sizes, colours and patterns to suit your preference. Most are made of slightly rubbery plastic, but some (notably Renegade) are made of hard plastic. A variety of strings and handsticks are also available. | |
Devilstick |
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| Picture to follow | A devilstick is a wooden stick, tapering towards the middle, which you keep in the air with two other sticks, usually coated in rubber or silicone. There are all kinds of really impressive twirly tricks to be done with devilstick, and I can't do any of them. All I can say about these props is that they come in different weights and (of course) decorations. |
Pole Spinning |
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| Pole (or staff) spinning is pretty much exactly what it sounds like - spinning a pole, throwing it, twirling it around your body, etc. There aren't many special poles available - the one pictured here is home-made out of a broom-handle. | |
Contact Juggling |
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| Contact juggling involves rolling a ball around your hands, arms and (for the more expert) chest, head, legs, etc. When done properly it is mesmerising, as the ball appears to flow around the juggler, sometimes even staying completely still while the juggler moves under it. It can't be explained - you have to see it. Any hard and reasonably heavy ball will do for practice, but it looks best with crystals as pictured to the left. These come in two basic forms, the more expensive but harder-wearing and clearer acrylic and the cheaper poly-carbon. Originally they were always clear, but these days there are a variety of colours and transparencies - some even have a coloured cylinder through the middle, which produces some odd optical effects. They are not cheap - you won't see much change from £20 even for a small one. | |
Hats |
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| Hat manipulation can be great fun and looks really good when it's done well. You can do many of the tricks with any hat (within reason - I'm not talking policemen's helmets), but for others you need one which is reasonably solid and quite heavy. The hat pictured to the left is specially designed for hat juggling and manipulation by Nils Pols. If you want to learn more about hat tricks, take a look at www.trickswithhats.org. It even has a guide to converting an ordinary hat to one suitable for manipulation. | |
Fire Props |
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| Most juggling props come in a version you can set fire to. OK, so this isn't true for hats or contact balls (at least, not that I've seen). Pictured to the left are Henry's Niteflite fire clubs. These can be juggled exactly like ordinary clubs, assuming you can get over the big flames whooshing inches in front of your face, and you remember not to catch the wrong end. Fire props usually have a wick on the end which can be dipped in paraffin - NOT petrol! Fire shows are quite common at juggling conventions and other events. Please find an expert before trying fire juggling for the first time. | |
Unicycling |
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| Unicycling can be great fun, especially if you start to get involved in games like unicycle hockey. There are lots of tricks to learn too, such as riding one-footed, wheel walking (pushing the wheel with your feet instead of using the pedals), etc. Most people learn to ride on a 20" wheel, as pictured to the left. This is a DM Ringmaster Pro, an excellent unicycle, which is practically bomb-proof but pays for that in its weight. | |
| This is a Pashley 26" Muni, designed for mountain unicycling (yes, we really do it!) A larger wheel lets you go faster and ride over obstacles and rough ground more easily. However, the larger wheel can be harder to control, which makes it less suited for indoor riding and learning tricks. You can find a full range of unicycles for sale at unicycle.com. |